Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India

by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words

This page relates ‘Waist Ornaments (a): Mekhala’ of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.

2.7. Waist Ornaments (a): Mekhalā

Mekhalā is a girdle with more than one string, worn by men and women and also described as an ornament of deities. It was of many types -simple as well as decorative ones. Gold, jewels, beeds of jewels, Darbha grass and Vakula were used for making a Mekhalā. Mekhalā with carvings of different motifs and those producing murmuring as well as jingling sound etc. were in vogue. It was useful for ladies in supporting the lower garment in position.

Earliest reference to Mekhalā is seen in Vedas[1].

The term Mekhalādhāma, used by Vātmīki may perhaps be in the sense of a thread, supporting the lower garment of women[2].

According to Agnipurāṇa[3], girdle with eight strings is a Mekhalā. The earliest direct mention of Mekhalā made of gold is in Viṣṇupurāṇa[4]. Matsyapurāṇa also incidentally refers to the same. References for Asura beauties wearing girdles with murmuring sound and Pārvatī wearing a girdle of Darbha grass are also seen there[5]. Brahmāṇḍapurāṇa and Vāyupurāṇa also attest to the use of Mekhalā[6].

Nāṭyaśāstra also defines Mekhalā as a girdle of eight strings. Mekhalā with jewel settings or made of jewel beeds are seen described in Nāṭyaśāstra[7].

Mekhalā described in some places in Raghuvaṃśa and Kumārasambhava is one with jingling sound. Tapanīyamekhalā and Hemamekhalā described by Kālidāsa are golden girdles[8].

Reference to simple chain type is seen in Amarakośa[9].

Kalahaṃsamekhalā described in Kirātārjunīya indicates a girdle with the carvings of swan on it. Gold girdles are often referred to there[10].

Māgha alludes to the use of Muñjamekhalā by worshippers. Mekhalā with innumerable strands of jewels is denoted there by the term Mekhalākalāpa[11].

Specimen for a bell carved girdle in gold as well as a Vakulamekhalā is got from Kādambarī. There also Muñjamekhalā is described in connection with the worshippers and those observing penance[12].

Besides the above mentioned sources, information about Mekhalā is available from some other texts like Bṛhatsaṃhitā, Mudrārākṣasa, Daridracārudatta and Ṛtusaṃhāra[13] .

Footnotes and references:

[1]:

SLAI, pp.185.188

[2]:

Vālmīki-rāmāyaṇa, II.8.17, 12.7,V.17.3

[3]:

112-116

[4]:

5.13

[5]:

139.34, 37, 154.308, 542

[6]:

3.27.6

[7]:

Nāṭyaśāstra, XXI.22-42

[8]:

Kumārasambhava, VIII.81; Raghuvaṃśa, XIX.45; Meghadūta, I.60; Ṛtusaṃhāra, I.6

[9]:

2.6.108

[10]:

IV.1

[11]:

Śiśupālavadha, IX.45

[12]:

Harṣacarita, IInd Ucchvāsa; ICCO, p.167

[13]:

Mṛcchakaṭika, II.19; Daridracārudatta, I.10

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