Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India
by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words
This page relates ‘Dress Making: Embroidery’ of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.
3.5. Dress Making: Embroidery
The art of embroidery was known to people since Vedic times. Usually embroidered clothes were a sign of aristocracy. Clothes were embroidered with various designs. Sometimes golden threads were employed in embroidery.
Peśas, Atka and Drāpi are some kinds of embroidered clothes mentioned in Ṛgveda[1]. In one place, Maruts are described as wearing golden Atka. In Vājasaneya-saṃhitā[2], a woman who stitches Peśas is named as Peśakārī. In Bṛhadāraṇyaka-upaniṣad[3] also the term Peśakārī is used to indicate a lady embroider.
The word Ārokha in Śatapatha-brāhmaṇa[4] indicates clothes having designs of flowers, stars and other patterns. From the description of the Uṣas in Ṛgveda[5], it can be inferred that young women wore clothes having embroidery works in golden threads. In one place, the horizons at sunrise and sunset are compared to the gold and red borders on each ends of a cloth. Pañcaviṃśa-brāhmaṇa[6] mentions Vrātyas attired in clothes having blue borders. We have also reference to Nīvi with decorated edges. Clothes were decorated with Tuṣa (Chaff) also. All these information point to the fact that Vedic people were experts in the art of embroidery.
In Vālmīki-rāmāyaṇa[7], we read of the embroidered apparel of Sītā and Rāvaṇa. There in a context, we come across, Sītā’s golden embroidered Uttarīya sticking into the blades of grass[8]. Rāvaṇa’s night garment was embellished with golden fibers[9]. A wool embroidered with golden fibre made out of fox’s hair is mentioned in Mahābhārata[10].
Kālidāsa[11] has mentioned silk clothes embroidered with swan designs very often. Haṃsacihnadukūla is a common expression.
Golden embroidered garments are mentioned by Daṇḍi[12] also. In Buddhacarita[13], we come across Siddhārtha clad in a cloth embellished with golden swan.
Footnotes and references:
[1]:
IV.367, II.35.14,V.74.5,VI.29.3, IX.107.13, 100.9, I.25.13
[2]:
30.9, Taittirīya-brāhmaṇa, 3.4.5, 1
[3]:
IV.4.5
[4]:
3.1.3; Kātyāyanasaṃhitā, 23.1; Taittirīya-saṃhitā, 6.1.1
[5]:
I.92.4
[6]:
17.14
[7]:
II.100.17
[8]:
Ibid
[9]:
Ibid, V.5.100
[10]:
Sabhāparva, 47.3
[11]:
Raghuvaṃśa, XVII.25; Kumārasambhava, V.6
[12]:
Daśakumāracarita, p.201
[13]:
I.6,59