Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India

by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words

This page relates ‘Sacrificial Dress’ of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.

2.24. Sacrificial Dress

About the dressing of a sacrificer, his wife and the priest who performs a sacrifice, we have reference in Brāhmaṇas, Kalpasūtras and Śrautasūtras.

A Sacrificer as referred to in Śatapatha-brāhmaṇa[1] usually wore four types of dress. Two upper garments -Adhivāsas and Pāṇḍva, a lower garment -Tārpya and a head dress Uṣṇīṣa. Of these, the upper garment is an undyed wool. A lower garment in the model of a skirt and made of Kuśa grass was worn by the sacrificer’s wife, which also is mentioned in Śatapatha-brāhmaṇa[2] .

In Baudhāyana-śrautasūtra[3], a sacrificer, his wife and the priest who performs the sacrifice are intended to wear washed fresh clothes. The clothing of a priest who performed Ābhicāra was of red colour. Baudhāyana[4] recommends different types of clothes for the sacrificer at different stages of performance. Clothes prepared from flax fibers are prescribed for the fire consecrating ceremony. If flax is not available, one may use cotton or wool.

Āpastamba-śrautasūtra[5] recommends a white turban for a king, who performs Rājasūya, while for queens, the head dress was Kumbha or Kurīra made of gold, while talking about the dress of a priest performing animal sacrifice as well as magical rites, Āpastamba-śrautasūtra suggests red garments as well as red turbans. Kātyāyana-śrautasūtra[6] also mentions it. According to another rule insisted by Āpastamba-śrautasūtra[7], Kāririṣṭī should be performed by wearing black upper garments, a black antelope skin and a black turban. In connection with the Aśvamedha sacrifice, Āpastamba-śrautasūtra[8] mentions the use of Śyāmūla. It is stated in one place in Āpastamba-śrautasūtra[9] that a person who wishes progeny and cattle should observe a vow for twelve days. During the vow, he should wear coarse garments.

As in Brahmaṇas, we have reference to grass garment in Kātyāyana-śrautasūtra[10] also. There during the performance of a Vājapeya, the sacrificer’s wife is suggested to wear an underskirt namely Caṇḍātaka. It should be made of Kuśa grass. Similarly a king who performs Rājasūya is recommended to wear a Tārpya, Adhivāsas, Pāṇḍva and Uṣṇīṣa.

Even though the above mentioned types of garments are generally seen referred to in literature, some expressions like Nānāveṣadhara, Citraveṣadhara etc. may perhaps point to the fact that a large variety of garments were prevalent. But we don’t have any further information regarding their identity.

Footnotes and references:

[1]:

14.2.1.8

[2]:

Ibid

[3]:

1.6, 5.6, 10.11

[4]:

Ibid

[5]:

19.16.16, 18.14.2.3

[6]:

22.3.15

[7]:

19.25

[8]:

20.17.9

[9]:

14.13, 15

[10]:

14.5.3

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