2.18. Dressing on the Basis of Profession

People belonging to different classes in the society wore different clothes according to their hereditary occupation. Perhaps the manner of dressing must have been the same to all. But the colour or quality of the texture might have been different. Description of the Pāṇḍavas entering the Virāṭa’s city in Mahābhārata^[1], informs difference in the clothing of people involved in different occupations in the society. There Bhīma, disguised as a cook is described as clothed in black. Likewise the dressing of his brothers, disguised as cowherds, eunuch, horse breeder etc. also are described there. Some of the professionals, whose costume is depicted in our literature, are the following.

a) Dress of a Warrior

Costume of a warrior must have been different in different countries. In general their costume includes head dress and a mantle. Sometimes, they wore gloves for the protection of fingers.

Ṛgveda^[2] mentions a head dress called Śipra, which is there referred to as worn by soldiers. From Yaśastilakacampū^[3] we get a picture of soldiers from Karnataka. He is described as wearing shorts like lower garment. His hair is held tight with a cloth band. In the same text, we have reference to soldiers of Gujarat and Tirhut, where the former’s dress is described as reaching the knees, while the latter is a mantle touching the ankle.

b) Dress of Cowherds

We don’t have any direct information regarding the dressing of cowherds. But from certain contexts we can infer that there might have been a separate mode of dressing for the people belonging to the community of cowherds. For e.g. in Mahābhārata^[4], there is a context, where Subhadrā is brought before Draupadī, dressed in the style of a cowherd. But in which aspect, their clothing were different from those of others is not clear. It was perhaps either in the mode of wearing, or in the quality or colour of the texture. However in Buddhacarita^[5], we find Nandabālā, the daughter of the cowherd chief clothed in dark blue.

c) Dress of Kirātas

Kirātas as represented by Aśvaghoṣa^[6], had clothing of peacock gale.

d) Dress of a Maid Servant

Maids usually wore a single cloth. It was of white colour. They were not permitted to wear Uttarīya. For e.g. in Mahābhārata^[7], Draupadī who was disguised as Sairandhrī of Virāṭa’s queen Sudeṣṇa is described as Ekavastrā, meaning clothed in single garment.

e) Hunting Dress

Hunting dress was not meant for professional hunters only, but even civilians wore suitable garments during a hunting expedition. The expression Mṛgayāveśa in Abhijñānaśākuntala^[8] makes it clears. Usually hunting dress was similar to the colour of leaves, in order to deceive the wild creatures with ease. In Raghuvaṃśa^[9], a hunting dress similar to the plantain leaves in colour is described. Clothing of tiger skin also was used for hunting. According to Mānasollāsa^[10], a hunter’s dress consists of an Upadhāna and Dvipadi of black and green colour respectively. Jyotsna. K. Kamath defines these garments as wrappers or trousers. In Kādambarī^[11] we come across a hunter attired in tiger skins.

Footnotes and references:

[1]:

EI, p.111

[2]:

I.29.2, 81.4, II.34.3

[3]:

p.59

[4]:

Ādiparva, 221.19

[5]:

XII.110

[6]:

Saundarananda, X.12

[7]:

Virāṭaparva, 9.2

[8]:

p.68

[9]:

IX.50

[10]:

Vol. II.vv.1468-1471

[11]:

DAOAI